BMW 5er-Reihe F07/F10/F10M/F11 facelift 520d, 190 PS, 8-speed automatic, all-wheel drive (2014–2017)

Research for this car

• Generation guide BMW 5 Series F10/F11 (2010-2017): known problems and buying guide

  A solid family saloon with good diesels, but check the rear air suspension, xDrive and front suspension before you buy.

• Engine guide BMW B47 2.0 diesel (318d, 320d, 520d): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid diesel with a fire-risk recall, so check the recall work and turbo paperwork first.

• Gearbox guide ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic (BMW Steptronic): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid 8-speed when its fluid is changed on time. Buy with oil records and a clean scan, and avoid one that shudders or has run in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Drive the car at medium speed on a rough road and listen for judder. Check the transfer-case oil record and the tyres: four matching tyres. Bad result: judder, bearing noise or mixed tyre sizes. Gebrauchtwagenberater gives 1,500-2,500 EUR for a transfer-case repair (Germany).
2. Ask whether the car sags overnight, then check the ride height at both rear corners. A scanner running BMW's workshop software (ISTA) reads sensor heights and compressor run time. Bad result: the rear drops after standing or the compressor runs a long time. Gebrauchtwagenberater gives 500-900 EUR for a pair of rear bellows (Germany).
3. Lift the car and check the front lower arms, joints and shocks for play. Test the steering column for knocks. Bad result: play in the joints or knocking over bumps. The arms are the main cost; no price is confirmed.
4. Open the rear doors and check the footwell and carpet for damp. Look at the door bottoms and drain holes. Bad result: a damp footwell or corrosion near the door drains. The sources give no fix and no price.
5. Ask for proof of the parking-brake software update. A scanner reads the software version. Bad result: a flat starter battery after the car stands, and no update on record. The update itself is cheap.

From the engine guide

1. EGR recall (VIN check). Check the VIN for open BMW campaigns. Ask for proof that the EGR cooler was checked or replaced. Bad: an open EGR campaign, or no proof on a car built 2014-2020.
2. Turbocharger (test drive). Ask where the car was driven. Turbo damage is reported mostly on cars used in low outside temperatures, where moisture in the clean-air pipe can freeze. Ask for turbo invoices. Bad: a turbo job with no paperwork. No scanner needed.
3. Injectors (records). Ask for injector service records on any car above 150,000 km. Bad: no record at that mileage. No scanner needed.
4. DPF (scanner). On any car above 250,000 km, check for DPF cleaning or replacement records. Bad: no records. A scanner shows stored DPF fault codes.
5. EGR valve (records). Ask whether the EGR valve was cleaned or replaced. Bad: a car used mostly in heavy traffic with no record. No scanner needed.

From the gearbox guide

1. Read the gearbox fault memory with a BMW-capable scanner. Bad result: pressure or solenoid codes such as 4F84, 4F87, P189C or P0748, or a past limp mode.
2. Ask for fluid and filter invoices. Bad result: no fluid change by 80,000 to 120,000 km, or a change without an adaptation reset.
3. Drive the car from cold and select Drive and Reverse. Bad result: a hard 1-2 shift, or a delay of 1-3 seconds before the gear engages.
4. Drive 15 minutes in town, then under load. Bad result: jerky 2-3 shifts, flaring, slipping or a burnt smell.
5. Hold a steady light throttle at low speed. Bad result: a shudder or vibration, which points to the torque converter lock-up clutch.
6. Look under the car on a lift. Bad result: oil at the wiring connector on the case, on the plastic pan or on the cooler lines.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions