BMW 5er-Reihe F07/F10/F10M/F11 525d, 218 PS, 8-speed automatic, rear-wheel drive (2011–2013)

Research for this car

• Generation guide BMW 5 Series F10/F11 (2010-2017): known problems and buying guide

  A solid family saloon with good diesels, but check the rear air suspension, xDrive and front suspension before you buy.

• Engine guide BMW N47 2.0 diesel (116d to 520d, Mini Cooper D): problems, costs and what to check

  A workable diesel with a costly timing chain weak spot, so buy only with chain proof and check the EGR recall.

• Gearbox guide ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic (BMW Steptronic): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid 8-speed when its fluid is changed on time. Buy with oil records and a clean scan, and avoid one that shudders or has run in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Ask whether the car sags overnight, then check the ride height at both rear corners. A scanner running BMW's workshop software (ISTA) reads sensor heights and compressor run time. Bad result: the rear drops after standing or the compressor runs a long time. Gebrauchtwagenberater gives 500-900 EUR for a pair of rear bellows (Germany).
2. Lift the car and check the front lower arms, joints and shocks for play. Test the steering column for knocks. Bad result: play in the joints or knocking over bumps. The arms are the main cost; no price is confirmed.
3. Open the rear doors and check the footwell and carpet for damp. Look at the door bottoms and drain holes. Bad result: a damp footwell or corrosion near the door drains. The sources give no fix and no price.
4. Ask for proof of the parking-brake software update. A scanner reads the software version. Bad result: a flat starter battery after the car stands, and no update on record. The update itself is cheap.

From the engine guide

1. Cold-start rattle (test drive, no scanner). Start the cold engine and listen for a metal rattle at the back of the engine. A rattle that lasts a few seconds is an early warning. Bad: a rattle that stays when warm or under throttle.
2. Chain job invoice (paperwork). Ask for an invoice for a chain job that includes the tensioners and guide rails. Bad: no invoice on a 2007 to 2011 car. Without one, budget 1,500-2,500 EUR (Germany, year not stated), with the gearbox or engine out.
3. Timing fault codes (scanner needed). Read the fault memory. Camshaft timing codes, such as P0016 or P0017, point to a stretched chain. Bad: any camshaft timing code or an engine warning light.
4. EGR recall (check the VIN). Enter the VIN in the KBA or BMW recall check. Recall 14099R covers X3 F25 builds from 2010 to 2014. Bad: an open campaign, or no proof the work was done.
5. Swirl flaps (scanner needed). Read the fault memory for the engine warning light. Bad: the warning light with lost power.
6. Oil history (paperwork). Look for oil changes every 10,000 to 15,000 km with BMW LL-04 oil. Bad: long gaps, or only the 30,000 km Longlife interval.
7. Goodwill (paperwork). Do not count on BMW paying for a chain. Goodwill for chain damage has mostly ended for these builds. Bad: a seller who says BMW will pay.

From the gearbox guide

1. Read the gearbox fault memory with a BMW-capable scanner. Bad result: pressure or solenoid codes such as 4F84, 4F87, P189C or P0748, or a past limp mode.
2. Ask for fluid and filter invoices. Bad result: no fluid change by 80,000 to 120,000 km, or a change without an adaptation reset.
3. Drive the car from cold and select Drive and Reverse. Bad result: a hard 1-2 shift, or a delay of 1-3 seconds before the gear engages.
4. Drive 15 minutes in town, then under load. Bad result: jerky 2-3 shifts, flaring, slipping or a burnt smell.
5. Hold a steady light throttle at low speed. Bad result: a shudder or vibration, which points to the torque converter lock-up clutch.
6. Look under the car on a lift. Bad result: oil at the wiring connector on the case, on the plastic pan or on the cooler lines.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions