BMW 5er-Reihe F07/F10/F10M/F11 535d, 300 PS, 8-speed automatic, rear-wheel drive (2010–2012)

Research for this car

• Generation guide BMW 5 Series F10/F11 (2010-2017): known problems and buying guide

  A solid family saloon with good diesels, but check the rear air suspension, xDrive and front suspension before you buy.

• Engine guide BMW N57 3.0 diesel (330d, 530d, X5 30d): problems, costs and what to check

  A six-cylinder diesel with costly chain risk, so buy only with recall proof and oil and chain records.

• Gearbox guide ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic (BMW Steptronic): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid 8-speed when its fluid is changed on time. Buy with oil records and a clean scan, and avoid one that shudders or has run in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Ask whether the car sags overnight, then check the ride height at both rear corners. A scanner running BMW's workshop software (ISTA) reads sensor heights and compressor run time. Bad result: the rear drops after standing or the compressor runs a long time. Gebrauchtwagenberater gives 500-900 EUR for a pair of rear bellows (Germany).
2. Lift the car and check the front lower arms, joints and shocks for play. Test the steering column for knocks. Bad result: play in the joints or knocking over bumps. The arms are the main cost; no price is confirmed.
3. Open the rear doors and check the footwell and carpet for damp. Look at the door bottoms and drain holes. Bad result: a damp footwell or corrosion near the door drains. The sources give no fix and no price.
4. Ask for proof of the parking-brake software update. A scanner reads the software version. Bad result: a flat starter battery after the car stands, and no update on record. The update itself is cheap.

From the engine guide

1. Chain (cold-start test, invoice). Listen for a rattle on a cold start. Ask for a chain job invoice. Bad: a rattle, or no chain record past 100,000 km.
2. Damper (look under the pulley). Check the rubber ring of the crankshaft pulley for cracks or a loose ring. Ask for a damper replacement receipt. Bad: visible cracks, or no record on a car over 100,000 km.
3. EGR recall (check the VIN). Check the VIN with a BMW dealer or the KBA recall list (reference 008124). Bad: an open campaign, or a cooler replaced with no record.
4. Swirl flaps and intake (ask for records). Ask whether the intake was cleaned and the flaps checked. Bad: no record at about 100,000 km, or a flap removed with no proof.
5. EGR and flap faults (scanner needed). Read the fault memory for EGR or swirl flap errors. Bad: any such error, or the engine warning light.
6. Oil history (paperwork). Check the service book for regular oil changes. Bad: long gaps between oil changes.

From the gearbox guide

1. Read the gearbox fault memory with a BMW-capable scanner. Bad result: pressure or solenoid codes such as 4F84, 4F87, P189C or P0748, or a past limp mode.
2. Ask for fluid and filter invoices. Bad result: no fluid change by 80,000 to 120,000 km, or a change without an adaptation reset.
3. Drive the car from cold and select Drive and Reverse. Bad result: a hard 1-2 shift, or a delay of 1-3 seconds before the gear engages.
4. Drive 15 minutes in town, then under load. Bad result: jerky 2-3 shifts, flaring, slipping or a burnt smell.
5. Hold a steady light throttle at low speed. Bad result: a shudder or vibration, which points to the torque converter lock-up clutch.
6. Look under the car on a lift. Bad result: oil at the wiring connector on the case, on the plastic pan or on the cooler lines.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions