Mercedes-Benz A-Klasse 176 A 180, 122 PS, 6-speed manual (2012–2015)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Mercedes-Benz A-Class W176 (2012-2018): known problems and buying guide

  A risky buy unless dry and well serviced. Check the boot and footwells for water, the front suspension for knocks and the recall list by VIN before you pay.

• Engine guide Mercedes M270 1.6 and 2.0 turbo petrol (A 180, A 200, CLA 200): problems, costs and what to check

  A decent engine when the oil is changed on time, but a cold-start rattle or unusual engine noise on a 2015 car should stop the deal.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Open the boot and lift the spare-wheel cover. Water, damp carpet or corrosion points to the flap seals behind the rear bumper. Check the footwell and control-unit connectors. A scanner reads stored faults. Bad: water or corrosion.
2. Check rear arches, roof edge, door seams and sills for paint blisters, and the underbody cover edges for rust. Bad: soft bubbles or rust through the paint.
3. Drive over speed bumps and listen for front knocks. Check the drop links (short bars to the anti-roll bar) and the control-arm bushes for play. Bad: clunks or split bushes.
4. Check start-stop at a standstill. If it never works, the buffer battery under the passenger seat may be worn; a scanner reads the fault memory. Bad: no start-stop.
5. Test COMAND or Audio 20 (radio and navigation) with the radio on and off. Pair a phone and select reverse. Bad: a blank camera or a failed map update.

From the engine guide

1. Timing chain (scanner needed). Start the engine cold and listen for a metallic rattle for 1-3 seconds. Ask for Xentry live cam data and check for codes P0016, P0017 and P0011. Bad: a rattle, any of those codes, or a chain reported as slack. A jumped chain can destroy the engine.
2. Camshaft (no scanner). For a 2015 car, listen for unusual engine noise at idle and under load, and check for power loss and rough running. Bad: a noisy engine, or power loss and rough running on the test drive.
3. Thermostat (scanner needed). From cold, the engine should reach about 80 C within 10 minutes, and the live reading should sit between 95 and 105 C. Read codes P0128 or P1296. Bad: a temperature that stays low, overheating, or either code.
4. Coolant (no scanner). Check the level when cold and again after a few weeks. Bad: a falling level or coolant stains around the expansion tank.
5. Injectors and intake valves (scanner needed). Look for rough idle, misfires, power loss and higher fuel use. Bad: a misfire code or a rough idle.
6. Oil and service history (no scanner). Ask for oil change records. Long gaps between changes and short trips speed up chain wear. Bad: long gaps or no records.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions