Audi A1 8X facelift 1.4 TFSI, 125 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2014–2018)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A1 8X (2010-2018): known problems and buying guide

  A sound small car when serviced, but get proof of the airbag recall work and check the suspension and gearbox before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.2 and 1.4 TSI (EA211) petrol engines: problems, costs and what to check

  Oil use and water pump leaks are the reported faults. Buy with a belt and pump record and a clean oil check.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Airbag recall by VIN. Ask an Audi dealer to check the VIN for the airbag and seat belt pretensioner recall. The UK DVSA recall page also works. A car with no proof of the work may not deploy its airbag or belt pretensioner in a crash. No tools needed.
2. Airbag warning light. Switch the ignition on. The airbag light should go out after a few seconds. If it stays on, the airbag system has a fault. A scanner reads the fault code. Needs a scanner.
3. Suspension bounce and knocks. Push down each corner of the car and let go. It should settle after one bounce. On a test drive, listen for knocks over bumps and for noise when turning on the spot. These point to worn struts, mounts or stabilizer links. No tools needed.

From the engine guide

1. Oil level (no scanner needed). Check the dipstick and ask for the oil-use history. Bad: the level falls between services, or blue smoke comes out under hard acceleration. Ask for proof of any ring or head work.
2. Coolant and water pump (no scanner needed). Check the coolant level when the engine is cold, and look under the car for wet stains near the pump. Bad: a low level or any leak. Ask for a dated invoice showing the pump was changed with the belt.
3. Invoices. Ask for dated invoices with the mileage for any belt, pump, oil or software work. No record means budget for the job.
4. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check for the car's country. Bad: an open campaign on the car.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions