BMW X5 E70 facelift xDrive30d, 245 PS, 8-speed automatic, all-wheel drive (2010–2013)

Research for this car

• Generation guide BMW X5 E70 (2007-2013): known problems and buying guide

  A costly used SUV with known weak spots in the xDrive, steering and rear air suspension, so buy only after checks.

• Engine guide BMW N57 3.0 diesel (330d, 530d, X5 30d): problems, costs and what to check

  A six-cylinder diesel with costly chain risk, so buy only with recall proof and oil and chain records.

• Gearbox guide ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic (BMW Steptronic): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid 8-speed when its fluid is changed on time. Buy with oil records and a clean scan, and avoid one that shudders or has run in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Drive slowly in tight full circles and pull away from a stop. Bad result: judder at part load, or mismatched tyres, or no transfer oil record.
2. Park, turn the wheel lock to lock, and listen over bumps. Bad result: knocks, play, or an active steering fault. Reprogramming needs a dealer or specialist.
3. Park overnight, then check the car height and listen to the compressor after start. Bad result: the car sags, shows level errors, or the compressor runs for long periods.
4. Lift the car and check the ball joints, lower arms and axle joints. Bad result: play in a joint or a knock over bumps.
5. Check the oil level and look under the car for fresh oil. On an N55, look at the valve cover and filter housing. Bad result: low level, fresh oil or drips.
6. Test the windows and lights, and ask whether the battery was ever disconnected. Bad result: any dead function. A reflash or module swap needs a dealer or specialist.
7. Look inside the rear light clusters for water, and check the lights work. Bad result: water or misted lenses, or a battery that drains because of the light boards.
8. Ask a BMW dealer or check the KBA by VIN for open campaigns, and ask for proof that recall work was done. Bad result: an open campaign on the car.

From the engine guide

1. Chain (cold-start test, invoice). Listen for a rattle on a cold start. Ask for a chain job invoice. Bad: a rattle, or no chain record past 100,000 km.
2. Damper (look under the pulley). Check the rubber ring of the crankshaft pulley for cracks or a loose ring. Ask for a damper replacement receipt. Bad: visible cracks, or no record on a car over 100,000 km.
3. EGR recall (check the VIN). Check the VIN with a BMW dealer or the KBA recall list (reference 008124). Bad: an open campaign, or a cooler replaced with no record.
4. Swirl flaps and intake (ask for records). Ask whether the intake was cleaned and the flaps checked. Bad: no record at about 100,000 km, or a flap removed with no proof.
5. EGR and flap faults (scanner needed). Read the fault memory for EGR or swirl flap errors. Bad: any such error, or the engine warning light.
6. Oil history (paperwork). Check the service book for regular oil changes. Bad: long gaps between oil changes.

From the gearbox guide

1. Read the gearbox fault memory with a BMW-capable scanner. Bad result: pressure or solenoid codes such as 4F84, 4F87, P189C or P0748, or a past limp mode.
2. Ask for fluid and filter invoices. Bad result: no fluid change by 80,000 to 120,000 km, or a change without an adaptation reset.
3. Drive the car from cold and select Drive and Reverse. Bad result: a hard 1-2 shift, or a delay of 1-3 seconds before the gear engages.
4. Drive 15 minutes in town, then under load. Bad result: jerky 2-3 shifts, flaring, slipping or a burnt smell.
5. Hold a steady light throttle at low speed. Bad result: a shudder or vibration, which points to the torque converter lock-up clutch.
6. Look under the car on a lift. Bad result: oil at the wiring connector on the case, on the plastic pan or on the cooler lines.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions