BMW X5 F15/F85 M50d, 381 PS, 8-speed automatic, all-wheel drive (2013–2018)

Research for this car

• Generation guide BMW X5 F15 (2013-2018): known problems and buying guide

  Weak spots in the xDrive transfer case, rear air suspension and oil use, so check the car and its recall work before you buy.

• Engine guide BMW N57 3.0 diesel (330d, 530d, X5 30d): problems, costs and what to check

  A six-cylinder diesel with costly chain risk, so buy only with recall proof and oil and chain records.

• Gearbox guide ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic (BMW Steptronic): problems, costs and what to check

  A solid 8-speed when its fluid is changed on time. Buy with oil records and a clean scan, and avoid one that shudders or has run in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Test-drive at part throttle and pull away from a stop. Bad result: judder or jerks under part load. Ask for transfer-case oil change records.
2. Park overnight, then check the car height and listen to the compressor on start-up. Bad result: the rear end sits low, or the compressor runs for long periods. A scanner reads stored level-control faults.
3. Check for fresh oil under the car and on the engine, and ask for oil change records. Bad result: fresh oil, drips, or a low level since the last service. On an N55, check the rear crankshaft seal.
4. Lift the car and check the axle mounts, springs and shock absorbers. Bad result: cracked or broken springs, or worn mounts and dampers that the inspection will flag.
5. Ask a BMW dealer or the KBA to check the car's VIN for open campaigns, including the EGR cooler and rear child lock recalls. Bad result: an open campaign, or no proof that the work was done.

From the engine guide

1. Chain (cold-start test, invoice). Listen for a rattle on a cold start. Ask for a chain job invoice. Bad: a rattle, or no chain record past 100,000 km.
2. Damper (look under the pulley). Check the rubber ring of the crankshaft pulley for cracks or a loose ring. Ask for a damper replacement receipt. Bad: visible cracks, or no record on a car over 100,000 km.
3. EGR recall (check the VIN). Check the VIN with a BMW dealer or the KBA recall list (reference 008124). Bad: an open campaign, or a cooler replaced with no record.
4. Swirl flaps and intake (ask for records). Ask whether the intake was cleaned and the flaps checked. Bad: no record at about 100,000 km, or a flap removed with no proof.
5. EGR and flap faults (scanner needed). Read the fault memory for EGR or swirl flap errors. Bad: any such error, or the engine warning light.
6. Oil history (paperwork). Check the service book for regular oil changes. Bad: long gaps between oil changes.

From the gearbox guide

1. Read the gearbox fault memory with a BMW-capable scanner. Bad result: pressure or solenoid codes such as 4F84, 4F87, P189C or P0748, or a past limp mode.
2. Ask for fluid and filter invoices. Bad result: no fluid change by 80,000 to 120,000 km, or a change without an adaptation reset.
3. Drive the car from cold and select Drive and Reverse. Bad result: a hard 1-2 shift, or a delay of 1-3 seconds before the gear engages.
4. Drive 15 minutes in town, then under load. Bad result: jerky 2-3 shifts, flaring, slipping or a burnt smell.
5. Hold a steady light throttle at low speed. Bad result: a shudder or vibration, which points to the torque converter lock-up clutch.
6. Look under the car on a lift. Bad result: oil at the wiring connector on the case, on the plastic pan or on the cooler lines.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions