CUPRA Ateca 1. Generation facelift 1.5 TSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2023–2026)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Cupra Ateca (since 2018): known problems and buying guide

  A strong used SUV if it is dry, rust-free and has had its recalls done; check the tailgate and infotainment.

• Engine guide VW 1.5 TSI and eTSI (EA211 evo) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Cold-start judder, oil use, coolant leaks and 48 V faults are the risks, so buy a late car with software and service records and check the oil and coolant.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Press the carpets, boot floor and spare-wheel well, and look at the headlining near the mirror. Bad result: damp, stains or a musty smell.
2. Look under the rear light clusters, along the rear door seals and the sills. Bad result: paint lifting, an orange tinge or bubbles.
3. Open and close the powered tailgate several times and listen to the struts. Bad result: a slow or dead tailgate. A scan of module 6D shows stored codes.
4. Read the last inspection report and look at the brake discs. Bad result: a deep lip, a poor contact pattern or brakes flagged.
5. Switch on the ignition and check that all four front parking sensors report. A scanner shows park-pilot faults; inspect the loom at the bumper bend.
6. Test the radio, navigation, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for a few minutes. Bad result: restarts, a blank screen or dropped phones.
7. Ask a dealer for all open campaigns by VIN, including steering campaign 48T7. Bad result: an open campaign.

From the engine guide

1. 48 V system (scanner). On an eTSI, read the 48 V fault memory and warning history. Bad: stored codes, stop-start off, or a recent battery or starter-generator invoice.
2. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 24ER, 24EV or 24EP campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions