SEAT Ateca 5FP facelift 2.0 TDI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch, all-wheel drive (2020–2023)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Seat Ateca (since 2016): known problems and buying guide

  A strong used SUV if it is dry, rust-free and has had its recalls done; check the tailgate and infotainment.

• Engine guide VW 2.0 TDI (EA288) diesel: problems, costs and what to check

  Coolant leaks, EGR and AdBlue faults are the main risks. Buy with a cold-start check, a coolant pressure test and a full scan.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ381 7-speed wet DSG (0GC): problems, costs and what to check

  Wet DSG with weak mechatronic pressure sensors, so buy only with a scan, a hot test drive and oil service records.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Press the carpets, boot floor and spare-wheel well, and look at the headlining near the mirror. Bad result: damp, stains or a musty smell.
2. Look under the rear light clusters, along the rear door seals and the sills. Bad result: paint lifting, an orange tinge or bubbles.
3. Open and close the powered tailgate several times and listen to the struts. Bad result: a slow or dead tailgate. A scan of module 6D shows stored codes.
4. Read the last inspection report and look at the brake discs. Bad result: a deep lip, a poor contact pattern or brakes flagged.
5. Switch on the ignition and check that all four front parking sensors report. A scanner shows park-pilot faults; inspect the loom at the bumper bend.
6. Test the radio, navigation, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for a few minutes. Bad result: restarts, a blank screen or dropped phones.
7. Ask a dealer for all open campaigns by VIN, including steering campaign 48T7. Bad result: an open campaign.

From the engine guide

1. Turbo (needs a scanner). Read boost faults and check the vanes. Bad: power loss, whistle or smoke.
2. DPF (needs a scanner). Read soot and ash loading. Bad: frequent regeneration or high oil level.
3. Intake manifold (pressure test). Pressure-test the cooling system. Bad: coolant loss with no puddle, worse under load.
4. EGR cooler (pressure test). Cap the cooler hoses and repeat the test. Bad: it holds only with the cooler bypassed.
5. AdBlue and NOx (needs a scanner). Read NOx sensor and dosing faults. Bad: an emissions warning, a restart countdown or crystallised AdBlue.
6. Water pump and heater. Start cold; heater must blow hot. Bad: weak heat, wandering gauge, dried coolant.
7. Oil pump drive (needs a scanner). Listen for a rattle at idle and check for oil-pressure codes. Bad: a red oil-pressure warning.
8. Belt and pump invoices. Ask for dated belt, pump and thermostat invoices. No record means budget for a belt job.
9. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 23Z7 campaign on a T6.

From the gearbox guide

1. Clutch test drive. From about 1,200 rpm, accelerate uphill and in traffic. Judder, slip or a rise in engine speed without acceleration means a clutch pack, the largest bill.
2. Mechatronic scan (needs a scanner). Read P1735, P1736, P0805 and P0607. With the engine off and P selected, both pressures should be 0.00 bar; a drift of 0.20 bar means a failing sensor.
3. Auxiliary pump campaign. Give the VIN to a dealer and ask if 34K1 or 34L4 is open or done. A car with code P0C2900 and no campaign record is a risk.
4. Oil service records. Old oil wears the mechatronic. Look for changes at 60,000 to 120,000 km and fluid G 055 529 A2. No record is a reason to walk.
5. Gear selector (needs a scanner). A "selector lever. You can drive on." message or codes P176A to P176D point to the selector. Check that the repair was done.
6. Oil leaks. Look at the mechatronic cover, vent and gearbox joints. Fresh oil means a reseal or a mechatronic job.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions