VW Golf VI 1.4 TSI, 122 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2008–2013)

Research for this car

• Generation guide VW Golf 6 (2008-2013): known problems and buying guide

  Buy only with proof of timing chain and DSG work. The chain, the GTI tensioner and the dry DSG cause the big bills.

• Engine guide VW 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI (EA111) petrol engines: problems, costs and what to check

  The timing chain and oil use are the known weak points. Buy only with chain paperwork and a clean oil check.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Ask for timing chain work records. Chain replacement is 800-1,400 EUR, an overhaul 4,000-6,000 EUR (Germany, year not stated). No record: lower the price or walk away.
2. On a DQ200 car, drive in first and second gear. Judder or jerky shifts mean a gearbox repair. Read the fault memory with a scanner.
3. Look under the car for coolant at the water pump, especially above 120,000 km. Check the coolant level.
4. On a 1.4 TSI 122 PS or a GTI, check for a lack of power or an engine warning light. Ask about intake valve cleaning.
5. Look for oil on the engine and under the car, especially on 1.6 MPI and turbo petrol engines. Check the oil level on a cold engine.
6. Clear the scuttle drains under the wipers. Lift the floor mat and smell for damp. Water in the footwell is a reason to check the fuse box and the control units in the driver footwell for corrosion.
7. Check springs and dampers, and drive shaft boots. Torn boots are normal wear from about 150,000 km.

From the engine guide

1. Cold-start rattle. A few seconds of metallic rattle on a cold start is the usual sign of a worn chain. Ask whether the chain and tensioner (the part that keeps the chain tight) were replaced, and ask for the dated invoice with the mileage. If not, budget 686 to 1,090 EUR in Germany.
2. Chain stretch reading. Ask a workshop to read the chain stretch values with a diagnostic tester (a computer tool that reads the car's systems).
3. Turbo warnings. A check engine light, or a loss of boost (the turbo's extra air pressure), points to the wastegate or actuator. Read the fault codes with a scanner.
4. Coolant and water pump. Look for coolant leaks and wet stains around the pump. Overheating and leaks are the symptoms. Ask whether the water pump was ever replaced.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions