Audi A3 8P facelift 2 1.4 TFSI, 125 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2008–2012)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A3 8P (2003-2012): known problems and buying guide

  Check the coolant and oil use first. Then the cylinder heads, timing chains, DQ200 clutch and EGR valves.

• Engine guide VW 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI (EA111) petrol engines: problems, costs and what to check

  The timing chain and oil use are the known weak points. Buy only with chain paperwork and a clean oil check.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. After a test drive, check the oil level. If oil use is high, ask for proof of an engine overhaul with revised pistons.
2. Look at the brake hoses for porous spots, and check the springs. Porous hoses are reported from about 5 to 11 years old.
3. Ask whether the ABS and ESP recall work was done on cars built May 2008 to May 2009.

From the engine guide

1. Cold-start rattle. A few seconds of metallic rattle on a cold start is the usual sign of a worn chain. Ask whether the chain and tensioner (the part that keeps the chain tight) were replaced, and ask for the dated invoice with the mileage. If not, budget 686 to 1,090 EUR in Germany.
2. Chain stretch reading. Ask a workshop to read the chain stretch values with a diagnostic tester (a computer tool that reads the car's systems).
3. Turbo warnings. A check engine light, or a loss of boost (the turbo's extra air pressure), points to the wastegate or actuator. Read the fault codes with a scanner.
4. Coolant and water pump. Look for coolant leaks and wet stains around the pump. Overheating and leaks are the symptoms. Ask whether the water pump was ever replaced.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions