Audi A5 F5 facelift Sportback 35 TDI, 163 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2020–2024)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A5 F5 (2016-2024): known problems and buying guide

  Solid chassis and sound diesels, but watch oil use, electrical faults and suspension wear on the petrol cars.

• Engine guide VW 2.0 TDI (EA288) diesel: problems, costs and what to check

  Coolant leaks, EGR and AdBlue faults are the main risks. Buy with a cold-start check, a coolant pressure test and a full scan.

• Gearbox guide Audi DL382 7-speed S tronic (0CK): problems, costs and what to check

  A smooth gearbox when serviced, but mechatronic and clutch bills are large, so buy only with a scan and oil records.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Lift the car and check the front lower arm ball joints, stabilizer links and shock absorbers for play, leaks and knocks over bumps.
2. Check the VIN in the official recall checker of your country. Ask the dealer for proof that open campaigns are done.
3. Cars built 2016 to 2020: ask whether the belt starter-generator was replaced under the recall. Moisture can make it overheat.
4. Use every window switch, and watch for windows that move on their own, especially when the indicator is used. CarWiki says a workshop software update fixes this.
5. Pair a phone by Bluetooth and check the screen for flicker or restarts.

From the engine guide

1. Turbo (needs a scanner). Read boost faults and check the vanes. Bad: power loss, whistle or smoke.
2. DPF (needs a scanner). Read soot and ash loading. Bad: frequent regeneration or high oil level.
3. Intake manifold (pressure test). Pressure-test the cooling system. Bad: coolant loss with no puddle, worse under load.
4. EGR cooler (pressure test). Cap the cooler hoses and repeat the test. Bad: it holds only with the cooler bypassed.
5. AdBlue and NOx (needs a scanner). Read NOx sensor and dosing faults. Bad: an emissions warning, a restart countdown or crystallised AdBlue.
6. Water pump and heater. Start cold; heater must blow hot. Bad: weak heat, wandering gauge, dried coolant.
7. Oil pump drive (needs a scanner). Listen for a rattle at idle and check for oil-pressure codes. Bad: a red oil-pressure warning.
8. Belt and pump invoices. Ask for dated belt, pump and thermostat invoices. No record means budget for a belt job.
9. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 23Z7 campaign on a T6.

From the gearbox guide

1. Mechatronic scan (needs a scanner). Read the gearbox fault memory for P0718, P0811, P0607, P179B and P17D1. Bad result: stored faults or a recent limp mode.
2. Cold clutch test. Pull away uphill and reverse up a ramp, twice. Judder means clutch work.
3. Pump motor history (needs a scanner). Check for pump and circuit board faults. A failed motor can stop the car.
4. Speed sensor campaign. Ask a dealer for campaigns 34 22 54 and 34 23 62. Scan for P0718 and P2768.
5. Oil leaks. Check the plastic pan, mechatronic and housing joint.
6. Oil records. Look for 60,000 km oil changes with G 055 529 A2. Stamps prove nothing.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions