Audi A5 F5 2.0 TFSI, 252 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2016–2018)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A5 F5 (2016-2024): known problems and buying guide

  Solid chassis and sound diesels, but watch oil use, electrical faults and suspension wear on the petrol cars.

• Engine guide VW 2.0 TSI (EA888 gen 3 and 4) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  A strong engine with known weak spots, so check the water pump, turbo and oil leaks before you buy.

• Gearbox guide Audi DL382 7-speed S tronic (0CK): problems, costs and what to check

  A smooth gearbox when serviced, but mechatronic and clutch bills are large, so buy only with a scan and oil records.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Ask for oil top-up records and check the dipstick on a level surface with a warm engine. Oil use above 300 ml per 1,000 km needs a workshop check.
2. Lift the car and check the front lower arm ball joints, stabilizer links and shock absorbers for play, leaks and knocks over bumps.
3. Check the VIN in the official recall checker of your country. Ask the dealer for proof that open campaigns are done.
4. Cars built 2016 to 2020: ask whether the belt starter-generator was replaced under the recall. Moisture can make it overheat.
5. Use every window switch, and watch for windows that move on their own, especially when the indicator is used. CarWiki says a workshop software update fixes this.
6. Pair a phone by Bluetooth and check the screen for flicker or restarts.

From the engine guide

1. Coolant and water pump (scanner). Check the coolant level when cold. Look for a puddle under the front centre of the car. Read the stored faults for P00B7 (low coolant flow). Ask for an invoice showing the pump and housing were replaced as one assembly. Bad: low coolant, P00B7, or overheating. A missed leak can wreck the engine: 4,000-15,000 GBP for major damage (UK, 2025).
2. Turbo and wastegate (test drive, scanner). Check that boost builds smoothly with no hesitation and no warning light. Ask for turbo or actuator invoices. Bad: boost loss, a warning light, or a turbo replaced with no paperwork.
3. Oil in the intake (scanner). Ask whether the car was driven hard or on track. Check for a rough idle, a check-engine light, and oil in the intake. Bad: any of these, or a track history with no service record.
4. Oil leaks at the back of the engine (no scanner). Look under the engine and where it meets the gearbox. Bad: oil at the rear seal. The fix needs the gearbox separated from the engine, so the job is large.

From the gearbox guide

1. Mechatronic scan (needs a scanner). Read the gearbox fault memory for P0718, P0811, P0607, P179B and P17D1. Bad result: stored faults or a recent limp mode.
2. Cold clutch test. Pull away uphill and reverse up a ramp, twice. Judder means clutch work.
3. Pump motor history (needs a scanner). Check for pump and circuit board faults. A failed motor can stop the car.
4. Speed sensor campaign. Ask a dealer for campaigns 34 22 54 and 34 23 62. Scan for P0718 and P2768.
5. Gear position sensor (needs a scanner). On cars up to 2018, check the key comes out in P and the display lights.
6. Oil leaks. Check the plastic pan, mechatronic and housing joint.
7. Oil records. Look for 60,000 km oil changes with G 055 529 A2. Stamps prove nothing.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions