Opel Mokka B 1.2 DI, 130 PS, 8-speed automatic (2021–2024)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Opel Mokka B (2020-2024): known problems and buying guide

  Check the Mokka-e charger warranty and the front suspension, and confirm every recall by VIN before you pay.

• Engine guide Stellantis 1.2 PureTech (EB2) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Buy only with belt invoices, a clean oil check and proof of on-time servicing, because the wet belt can destroy the engine.

• Gearbox guide Aisin EAT8 8-speed automatic (Peugeot, Opel, Citroen): problems, costs and what to check

  A smooth 8-speed that lasts when its oil is changed. Buy with fluid records and a clean scan, avoid one that judders or has been in limp mode.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Check the front suspension and axle joints on a lift. Play or a broken coil spring is a bad result. No scanner is needed.
2. Check the brake discs. The Mokka B wears them faster than the previous car. Worn discs are a bad result. No confirmed price.
3. Use the screen, buttons and phone mirroring. A freeze or dropped connection is a bad result. Try the NAV and phone reboot first.
4. On a 1.2 petrol built 2022-2025, ask for proof the fuel leak campaign (KUU) was done. An open campaign is a bad result.

From the engine guide

1. Belt or chain, then belt history (no scanner). The engine code is in field P.5 of the registration document: EB2LTED and EB2LTEDH2 have a chain, every other code a wet belt. Ask for a dated belt invoice with mileage and check belt width through the oil filler. Bad: no invoice, a belt older than 6 years or past 100,000 km, or a rough, grey or frayed belt. Budget 800-3,000 EUR (Germany, 2026).
2. Oil use (no scanner). Check the level before and after a long drive and ask for refill records. Bad: more than 0.5 L per 1,000 km, blue smoke at cold start, or no records.
3. Turbo (test drive). Listen for a whistle and watch for blue or grey smoke under load. Bad: smoke, a whistle or low power from a blocked oil feed.
4. Brakes (test drive). Press the pedal after a cold start. Bad: a hard pedal with little assistance from a blocked brake vacuum pump.
5. Oil and service records. Check the oil spec and service dates on the invoices. Bad: overdue service, wrong oil, or no stamps. Overdue servicing can void the extended warranty.
6. Fault codes (scanner). Read the fault memory for timing or misfire codes. Bad: stored timing codes. A clean memory does not prove the belt is good.
7. Recall check (no scanner). Enter the VIN in the official recall checker for the car's country. Bad: an open belt or brake-vacuum campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Check the overheating history (needs a scanner). Read stored over-temperature events and the oil temperature after a long drive. Repeated limp mode or a burnt oil smell means a rebuild risk.
2. Test the torque converter. At a steady light throttle, feel for a shudder or stutter in one speed window. That points to the lock-up clutch inside the converter.
3. Read the valve body codes (needs a scanner). Check solenoid codes and hot pressure. Stored solenoid or pressure codes point to valve body wear.
4. Road test in slow city traffic. Spend at least 15 minutes in town and provoke a 2-3 upshift. A hard shunt, a flare or a delayed take-up points to worn parts or old fluid. Scan for codes afterwards.
5. Ask for the oil history. No fluid change by 100,000 km is the common version of the shift complaint. Invoices for a flush and filter count.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions