Skoda Fabia 3. Generation facelift 1.0 TSI, 110 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2018–2019)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Skoda Fabia III (2014-2021): known problems and buying guide

  Breakdown and inspection records are good. Check the recalls, the brakes and the DSG gearbox before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.0 TSI three-cylinder petrol (EA211): problems, costs and what to check

  A strong small engine, but check the coolant module, the injector recall and the turbo wastegate before you buy.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Recall check by VIN. Ask a Skoda dealer to check open recalls by VIN. Ask for proof of any driver airbag or injector work. Bad result: an open campaign, or no proof for a car built 2014 to 2018 or a 1.0 TSI built 2018 to 2019.
2. Foot brake and handbrake. Press the brake pedal hard at a stop. Pull the handbrake on a slope. Bad result: a pedal that feels weak or uneven, or a handbrake that sticks or does not hold.
3. Brake discs. Look through the wheel at the disc edge. Bad result: deep grooves, or discs that look worn down to the edge.
4. Exhaust. Look under the car at the silencer and the pipes. Bad result: holes, cracks or a loose box.
5. Low beam. Switch on the low beam in front of a wall, from a fixed spot. Bad result: a light cut-off that sits too high or too low, or is uneven from side to side.
6. Phone pairing. Pair your phone with the touchscreen during the test drive. Bad result: pairing fails or keeps dropping.

From the engine guide

1. Camshaft adjuster bolts (listen, 2018-2020 cars). Listen for grinding or scraping at the timing belt cover on a cold start. Ask whether the bolt check (TPI 2038019) was done. Bad: a grinding noise or no record on a 2018-2020 car.
2. Timing belt, water pump and oil (no scanner). Ask for dated invoices with mileage for belt, pump and oil changes. Check the coolant cold. Bad: no record, low coolant, white crystals at the pump.
3. Turbo wastegate (scanner). Warm engine, roll in third, add light throttle; listen for a metallic rattle. Read P2563 and P0299, including deleted entries. Bad: rattle or limp mode.
4. Injectors and recall (scanner). Check the VIN for 24FO, 24FP or 24FQ. Scan fuel trims and misfires. Bad: an open recall, fuel smell or misfire.
5. Intake, coils and plugs (scanner). Scan P0300-P0304 and check for rough idle, misfire under load, or a flashing engine light. Ask for a plug invoice at 60,000 km. Bad: a misfire that moves with a swapped coil.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions