VW Nutzfahrzeuge Caddy III facelift 1.6 TDI, 102 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2010–2015)

Research for this car

• Generation guide VW Caddy 3 (2003-2015): known problems and buying guide

  A practical van with good ADAC breakdown figures. Check the clutch, suspension, brakes and rust before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.6 and 2.0 TDI (EA189) diesel engines: problems, costs and what to check

  Recall work, EGR and DPF faults and injector repairs are common. Buy with recall proof, a belt invoice and a clean fault memory.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Check the sills, wheel arches, tailgate and the area above the rear axle for rust. Bubbling paint or soft metal means bodywork.
2. Push down on each corner and listen over bumps. Knocking, a bouncy ride or uneven tyre wear points to worn springs, dampers or wishbone bushes.
3. Look at the brake discs through the wheels. Deep lips, cracks or heavy rust mean new discs and pads. ADAC puts a front brake job at 440-470 EUR (Germany, 2017).
4. Park over a clean sheet and check the engine and gearbox for oil. Fresh drips or a low level mean seal work.
5. Switch on every light and check the rear clusters and number-plate lamp. Dark bulbs or flicker mean contact or wiring work.
6. Ask a VW dealer to check the VIN for open recalls, in particular the 23R7 software update on a 1.6 or 2.0 TDI common-rail diesel. Bad result: an open campaign.

From the engine guide

1. Recall paperwork (no scanner). Ask the dealer for a record of the software update, and of the flow straightener on a 1.6. Bad: no record.
2. Fault memory (needs a scanner). Bad: EGR codes P0401 or P0402, turbo codes P2563 or P2564, or DPF codes such as P2002.
3. Test drive. Bad: judder, lost power or limp mode.
4. Injectors (no scanner). Ask whether the injectors were replaced or revised. Bad: rough running with no injector work on record.
5. DPF (no scanner). Ask how the car was driven and whether the filter was cleaned. Bad: a DPF warning lamp, or short trips only.
6. Coolant (engine cold). Check the level and look for an exhaust smell in the cabin. Bad: any coolant loss. The EGR cooler is a common cause.
7. Timing belt invoice. Bad: no dated invoice for the belt, tensioner and water pump, or past 210,000 km or 5 years with no change.
8. Turbo (needs a scanner). On a 2.0 TDI past about 150,000 km. Bad: boost codes or oil leaks at the turbo.
9. Flywheel (manual only). Drive in 2nd gear at about 1,400 rpm. Bad: a rattle.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions