VW Golf VIII facelift 1.5 eTSI, 116 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (since 2024)

Research for this car

• Generation guide VW Golf 8 (2019-today): known problems and buying guide

  Mostly software faults in the emergency call, infotainment and assistance. Get dealer proof of the updates, then check the DQ200 gearbox.

• Engine guide VW 1.5 TSI and eTSI (EA211 evo) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Cold-start judder, oil use, coolant leaks and 48 V faults are the risks, so buy a late car with software and service records and check the oil and coolant.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Emergency call and infotainment updates. Ask a dealer to check the car's record for the 2020 emergency call update and the 2021 and 2022 infotainment updates. Bad result: an update is missing.
2. Judder. Pull away gently from cold. Bad result: a judder or jerk at low speed. Ask whether the engine software is up to date.
3. Infotainment. Use the navigation, phone and climate controls for about ten minutes. Bad result: freezes, reboots or a slow start.
4. Assistance systems. On a test drive, check emergency braking, Travel Assist and the parking aids. Bad result: a "not available" message, or braking for no reason.
5. 12 V battery. With the engine off, measure the battery voltage with a multimeter. Bad result: below 12.3 V.

From the engine guide

1. 48 V system (scanner). On an eTSI, read the 48 V fault memory and warning history. Bad: stored codes, stop-start off, or a recent battery or starter-generator invoice.
2. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 24ER, 24EV or 24EP campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC versions