VW T-Cross 1. Generation 1.5 TSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2019–2023)

Research for this car

• Generation guide VW T-Cross (since 2019): known problems and buying guide

  A workable buy with full service records; check the rear brakes, the airbag and seatbelt recalls by VIN, and the stop-start.

• Engine guide VW 1.5 TSI and eTSI (EA211 evo) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Cold-start judder, oil use, coolant leaks and 48 V faults are the risks, so buy a late car with software and service records and check the oil and coolant.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Look through the wheel at the rear discs and pads. Check whether the car has rear discs or drums; drums last longer. Bad result: deep grooves, rust, or pads a few millimetres thick. Expect 150-400 EUR (Germany, year not stated).
2. Ask a dealer to check the VIN for seatbelt warning campaign KBA 013014 (VW code 90V6). Bad result: an open campaign, or the belt warning wrong in the cluster.
3. Ask a dealer to check the VIN for curtain airbag campaign VW 69AN. Bad result: an open campaign.
4. Drive over bumps and run the dashboard vent with the car cold. Bad result: a squeak from the pillar beside the windscreen, or a rattle that stays after warm-up.
5. Test the wipers in heavy rain. Bad result: judder or sticking blades.
6. Ask for the brake fluid change record. It is due every two years. Bad result: no record. About GBP 80 in the UK (year not stated).
7. Ask a dealer for all open campaigns by VIN, not only those listed here. Bad result: any open campaign.

From the engine guide

1. Oil use (no scanner). Check the dipstick and top-up history. Bad: low level, blue smoke, or ring work without an invoice.
2. ACT and camshaft (scanner). Listen for a shudder when the engine switches from two to four cylinders, and read faults. Bad: constant shudder, EPC light, or camshaft codes.
3. Coolant (no scanner). Check the level cold; look for white residue or a sweet smell near the thermostat module. Bad: low level, stains, weak cabin heat.
4. Particulate filter (scanner). On a short-trip car, read soot load and GPF codes. Bad: GPF lamp or regeneration faults.
5. Cold start (scanner). Start stone cold; pull away in 1st and 2nd. Bad: judder between 1,200 and 1,800 rpm. Ask for the update record; a scanner shows the ECU version.
6. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 24ER, 24EV or 24EP campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions