VW Touran II 1.4 TSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2015–2018)

Research for this car

• Generation guide VW Touran II (2015-today): known problems and buying guide

  Check the panoramic roof drains and recall history first, then rear brakes and front suspension on a documented car.

• Engine guide VW 1.2 and 1.4 TSI (EA211) petrol engines: problems, costs and what to check

  Oil use and water pump leaks are the reported faults. Buy with a belt and pump record and a clean oil check.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Test the dual-clutch automatic (DSG) from cold. Bad result: judder or a warning. A scanner can read the fault memory. See the gearbox guide.
2. Start the car and use the infotainment. Bad result: black screen, freeze, or slow Android Auto. A head unit costs 400-800 EUR (country not stated, 2026).
3. Pour water into the roof drains. Bad result: water builds up, does not drain, or footwells are damp.
4. Check the VIN (vehicle identification number) for open recalls: roof LED, steering 17016R, head restraint, engine software, brake pedal 46I6. Bad result: an open campaign.
5. Check rear brakes and drive over bumps. Bad result: a lip, pads near the limit, knocks, or a broken spring.
6. Look under the engine and gearbox for oil. Bad result: drips or a wet undertray.
7. Run the air conditioning and listen in the footwell. Bad result: knocking when cold. A scanner can read B108D71.

From the engine guide

1. Oil level (no scanner needed). Check the dipstick and ask for the oil-use history. Bad: the level falls between services, or blue smoke comes out under hard acceleration. Ask for proof of any ring or head work.
2. Coolant and water pump (no scanner needed). Check the coolant level when the engine is cold, and look under the car for wet stains near the pump. Bad: a low level or any leak. Ask for a dated invoice showing the pump was changed with the belt.
3. Invoices. Ask for dated invoices with the mileage for any belt, pump, oil or software work. No record means budget for the job.
4. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check for the car's country. Bad: an open campaign on the car.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions