Skoda Karoq 1. Generation 1.5 TSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2017–2021)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Skoda Karoq (since 2017): known problems and buying guide

  Passes TÜV better than average; check open recalls by VIN and the DSG gearbox before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.5 TSI and eTSI (EA211 evo) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Cold-start judder, oil use, coolant leaks and 48 V faults are the risks, so buy a late car with software and service records and check the oil and coolant.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. On a DSG car, follow the checks in the gearbox guide. Read the fault memory with a scanner. Bad result: jerking when pulling away from cold, or a fault code.
2. Open and close the tailgate with the key and the button, several times. Bad result: it sticks, stops halfway or does not open.
3. Drive over speed bumps and listen for creaks from the front. Bad result: a creak from the front end.
4. Check the VIN for driver airbag campaign 69Y9. Bad result: an open campaign.
5. Check the driver's seat mount for cracks, and the VIN for the seat recall. Bad result: cracks or an open campaign.
6. Check the VIN for the brake pedal plate recall. Bad result: an open campaign.
7. Test the screen, Bluetooth and phone link on a full drive. Bad result: freezes or a restart. Ask for the record of the last software update.
8. Ask a dealer for all open campaigns by VIN. Bad result: any open campaign from the list above.

From the engine guide

1. Oil use (no scanner). Check the dipstick and top-up history. Bad: low level, blue smoke, or ring work without an invoice.
2. ACT and camshaft (scanner). Listen for a shudder when the engine switches from two to four cylinders, and read faults. Bad: constant shudder, EPC light, or camshaft codes.
3. Coolant (no scanner). Check the level cold; look for white residue or a sweet smell near the thermostat module. Bad: low level, stains, weak cabin heat.
4. Particulate filter (scanner). On a short-trip car, read soot load and GPF codes. Bad: GPF lamp or regeneration faults.
5. Cold start (scanner). Start stone cold; pull away in 1st and 2nd. Bad: judder between 1,200 and 1,800 rpm. Ask for the update record; a scanner shows the ECU version.
6. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 24ER, 24EV or 24EP campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions