Skoda Octavia 4. Generation 1.5 TSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2020–2024)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Skoda Octavia IV (since 2020): known problems and buying guide

  A practical family car, but check open recalls, the infotainment software and the front suspension before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.5 TSI and eTSI (EA211 evo) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  Cold-start judder, oil use, coolant leaks and 48 V faults are the risks, so buy a late car with software and service records and check the oil and coolant.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Read the infotainment version and fault memory with a scanner; test every screen, CarPlay, Front Assist and Travel Assist. Bad result: old software, stored faults, reboots or systems that stay off.
2. Check springs and dampers on a lift; look for transport blocks under the front gaiters. Bad result: cracks, leaks, play or blocks still fitted.
3. Test the 12 V battery after the car sleeps and measure the quiescent current. Bad result: a low battery or a drain.
4. Check DSG heat shield recall 47U5 by VIN. Bad result: an open campaign.
5. Check steering recall 48LS by VIN. Bad result: an open campaign.
6. Check engine cover recall 10H6 on 2020-2022 cars. Bad result: an open campaign and the cover still fitted.
7. Ask about camera calibration after any windscreen change. Bad result: Front Assist or Travel Assist inactive.

From the engine guide

1. Oil use (no scanner). Check the dipstick and top-up history. Bad: low level, blue smoke, or ring work without an invoice.
2. 48 V system (scanner). On an eTSI, read the 48 V fault memory and warning history. Bad: stored codes, stop-start off, or a recent battery or starter-generator invoice.
3. ACT and camshaft (scanner). Listen for a shudder when the engine switches from two to four cylinders, and read faults. Bad: constant shudder, EPC light, or camshaft codes.
4. Coolant (no scanner). Check the level cold; look for white residue or a sweet smell near the thermostat module. Bad: low level, stains, weak cabin heat.
5. Particulate filter (scanner). On a short-trip car, read soot load and GPF codes. Bad: GPF lamp or regeneration faults.
6. Cold start (scanner). Start stone cold; pull away in 1st and 2nd. Bad: judder between 1,200 and 1,800 rpm. Ask for the update record; a scanner shows the ECU version.
7. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check. Bad: an open 24ER, 24EV or 24EP campaign.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions