Audi A3 8V facelift 1.0 TFSI, 115 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2016–2019)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A3 8V (2012-2020): known problems and buying guide

  Check oil use on 1.2 and 1.4 TFSI, the quattro coupling pump and S tronic judder before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.0 TSI three-cylinder petrol (EA211): problems, costs and what to check

  A strong small engine, but check the coolant module, the injector recall and the turbo wastegate before you buy.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Check the coolant level and look for leaks at the water pump and thermostat housing. Bad result: low coolant or a leak.
2. On a 7-speed dry S tronic, test pull-away from a stop and in traffic. Bad result: judder or jerks. Ask for clutch history.
3. Look at the rear discs and backing plates for rust, and ask about brake wear at the last inspection. Bad result: heavy rust or worn brakes.
4. Test the infotainment system on the test drive and ask whether the software update was done. Bad result: faults that return after the update.
5. Check by VIN that the front seat belt recall was done. Bad result: the campaign is still open.

From the engine guide

1. Camshaft adjuster bolts (listen, 2018-2020 cars). Listen for grinding or scraping at the timing belt cover on a cold start. Ask whether the bolt check (TPI 2038019) was done. Bad: a grinding noise or no record on a 2018-2020 car.
2. Timing belt, water pump and oil (no scanner). Ask for dated invoices with mileage for belt, pump and oil changes. Check the coolant cold. Bad: no record, low coolant, white crystals at the pump.
3. Turbo wastegate (scanner). Warm engine, roll in third, add light throttle; listen for a metallic rattle. Read P2563 and P0299, including deleted entries. Bad: rattle or limp mode.
4. Injectors and recall (scanner). Check the VIN for 24FO, 24FP or 24FQ. Scan fuel trims and misfires. Bad: an open recall, fuel smell or misfire.
5. Intake, coils and plugs (scanner). Scan P0300-P0304 and check for rough idle, misfire under load, or a flashing engine light. Ask for a plug invoice at 60,000 km. Bad: a misfire that moves with a swapped coil.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions