Audi A3 8V facelift 2.0 TFSI, 190 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch, all-wheel drive (2016–2020)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A3 8V (2012-2020): known problems and buying guide

  Check oil use on 1.2 and 1.4 TFSI, the quattro coupling pump and S tronic judder before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 2.0 TSI (EA888 gen 3 and 4) petrol: problems, costs and what to check

  A strong engine with known weak spots, so check the water pump, turbo and oil leaks before you buy.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ381 7-speed wet DSG (0GC): problems, costs and what to check

  Wet DSG with weak mechatronic pressure sensors, so buy only with a scan, a hot test drive and oil service records.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. On a quattro, ask for proof of coupling oil changes. Bad result: no records, or the front wheels spin and the rear wheels do not drive.
2. Ask for the timing chain service record on a 1.8 or 2.0 TFSI. Bad result: no record of chain or tensioner work after about 120,000 km.
3. Check the coolant level and look for leaks at the water pump and thermostat housing. Bad result: low coolant or a leak.
4. On a 7-speed dry S tronic, test pull-away from a stop and in traffic. Bad result: judder or jerks. Ask for clutch history.
5. Look at the rear discs and backing plates for rust, and ask about brake wear at the last inspection. Bad result: heavy rust or worn brakes.
6. Test the infotainment system on the test drive and ask whether the software update was done. Bad result: faults that return after the update.
7. Check by VIN that the front seat belt recall was done. Bad result: the campaign is still open.

From the engine guide

1. Coolant and water pump (scanner). Check the coolant level when cold. Look for a puddle under the front centre of the car. Read the stored faults for P00B7 (low coolant flow). Ask for an invoice showing the pump and housing were replaced as one assembly. Bad: low coolant, P00B7, or overheating. A missed leak can wreck the engine: 4,000-15,000 GBP for major damage (UK, 2025).
2. Turbo and wastegate (test drive, scanner). Check that boost builds smoothly with no hesitation and no warning light. Ask for turbo or actuator invoices. Bad: boost loss, a warning light, or a turbo replaced with no paperwork.
3. Oil in the intake (scanner). Ask whether the car was driven hard or on track. Check for a rough idle, a check-engine light, and oil in the intake. Bad: any of these, or a track history with no service record.
4. Oil leaks at the back of the engine (no scanner). Look under the engine and where it meets the gearbox. Bad: oil at the rear seal. The fix needs the gearbox separated from the engine, so the job is large.

From the gearbox guide

1. Clutch test drive. From about 1,200 rpm, accelerate uphill and in traffic. Judder, slip or a rise in engine speed without acceleration means a clutch pack, the largest bill.
2. Mechatronic scan (needs a scanner). Read P1735, P1736, P0805 and P0607. With the engine off and P selected, both pressures should be 0.00 bar; a drift of 0.20 bar means a failing sensor.
3. Auxiliary pump campaign. Give the VIN to a dealer and ask if 34K1 or 34L4 is open or done. A car with code P0C2900 and no campaign record is a risk.
4. Oil service records. Old oil wears the mechatronic. Look for changes at 60,000 to 120,000 km and fluid G 055 529 A2. No record is a reason to walk.
5. Gear selector (needs a scanner). A "selector lever. You can drive on." message or codes P176A to P176D point to the selector. Check that the repair was done.
6. Oil leaks. Look at the mechatronic cover, vent and gearbox joints. Fresh oil means a reseal or a mechatronic job.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions