Audi A3 8V facelift 1.4 TFSI, 150 PS, 7-speed dual-clutch (2016–2017)

Research for this car

• Generation guide Audi A3 8V (2012-2020): known problems and buying guide

  Check oil use on 1.2 and 1.4 TFSI, the quattro coupling pump and S tronic judder before you buy.

• Engine guide VW 1.2 and 1.4 TSI (EA211) petrol engines: problems, costs and what to check

  Oil use and water pump leaks are the reported faults. Buy with a belt and pump record and a clean oil check.

• Gearbox guide VW DQ200 7-speed DSG (0AM, 0CW): problems, costs and what to check

  Dry DSG with a known weak mechatronic and clutch. Buy only with recall and oil-change records and a clean pump test.

Known issues for this car

Before you buy this car

From the generation guide

1. Check the oil level after a test drive. Ask for oil change records. Oil use over 1 litre per 1,000 km means engine work on the pistons.
2. Check the coolant level and look for leaks at the water pump and thermostat housing. Bad result: low coolant or a leak.
3. On a 7-speed dry S tronic, test pull-away from a stop and in traffic. Bad result: judder or jerks. Ask for clutch history.
4. On a test drive, check for lost boost or a whine under load. Bad result: sluggish boost.
5. Look at the rear discs and backing plates for rust, and ask about brake wear at the last inspection. Bad result: heavy rust or worn brakes.
6. Test the infotainment system on the test drive and ask whether the software update was done. Bad result: faults that return after the update.

From the engine guide

1. Oil level (no scanner needed). Check the dipstick and ask for the oil-use history. Bad: the level falls between services, or blue smoke comes out under hard acceleration. Ask for proof of any ring or head work.
2. Coolant and water pump (no scanner needed). Check the coolant level when the engine is cold, and look under the car for wet stains near the pump. Bad: a low level or any leak. Ask for a dated invoice showing the pump was changed with the belt.
3. Invoices. Ask for dated invoices with the mileage for any belt, pump, oil or software work. No record means budget for the job.
4. Recall check. Enter the VIN in the official recall check for the car's country. Bad: an open campaign on the car.

From the gearbox guide

1. Fault scan (needs a scanner). P17BF, P189C, P1895 or P0841 mean a pressure fault, usually the accumulator housing. Get a repair price or walk away.
2. Pump test. Ignition on, engine off. The pump should run briefly and stop. A pump that keeps whirring points to the accumulator.
3. Oil. Look at the gearbox and the undertray. Wet oil can mean a mechatronic job.
4. Control unit signs. Ask about a flashing gear display, a blown gearbox fuse, or the car losing drive at a stop.
5. Clutch values (needs a scanner). Read remaining clutch travel and the adaptation counters. Counters that will not adapt, or very low travel, mean a clutch job soon.
6. Road test in 6th and 7th. Full throttle from 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Engine speed that swings by up to 200 rpm means a worn clutch. Also feel for judder pulling away.
7. Reverse, cold and warm. A flashing R, no reverse or a crunch is bad.
8. Cold start. A rattle for 5 to 10 minutes, or in 2nd on overrun, points to the flywheel.
9. Paperwork. VIN check for open recalls; for 2008 to 2013 cars, proof of the 2013 oil change; invoices for any mechatronic repair.

Running costs

ADAC figures for 15,000 km a year over 60 months

ADAC versions